The Bull Ring has been at the heart of Birmingham’s market trading since the 12th century when the lord of the manor was first granted a market charter. The market was built just north of his manor house in what was then a village.[1]
The market at the Bull Ring survived across the centuries, through the challenges of plague, earthquake and rebellions. In the 18th century Birmingham’s first historian, William Hutton, wrote about the poor state of the market, although it’s hard to know if it had really decayed or aspirations had risen. The market at the Bull Ring was described as filthy, crowded and dangerously busy. Hutton said that “to stand all day idle in the marketplace is not known to us”. In the later 1700s this wasn’t a place for browsing, it was a case of get in, get what you wanted, and get out again.
Prior to redevelopment in the first decade of the 19th century, the Bull Ring was a ramshackle area of old houses, stalls and shops that had grown up over centuries. Down the middle of the open space was the shambles. This was the name of a row of stalls where meat was sold. The image below is a sketch by local artist Samuel Lines, drawn in c.1800. This may have been drawn from memory to capture the buildings lost to development. The scene shows nothing of the chaos of a market day, nor the filth described by Hutton. We can get a feel of the age of the market, some of the buildings appear Tudor or Jacobean. And at the centre of the scene you may make out that Lines has added in the bull ring.[2]
The corn cheaping (cheaping meaning ‘market’) sold vegetables and perhaps some fruit. Eggs and cheese could be bought at the Women’s Market, recently moved to High Street, following the demolition of the Old Cross near to St. Martin’s Church. The Old Cross, or High Cross (before it became old), had been an ancient seat of administration in the town, which had recently been demolished as part of the improvement plan. Things were moving forward; change was in the air. The site of St Martin’s Church, which can be seen in the background of the Samuel Lines sketch, was also a medieval remnant, but it had been rebuilt over the years, and would be again later in the 19th century.
From 1769 a new administrative body in Birmingham, the Street Commissioners, began to make improvements to the town. This body comprised local businessmen who were keen to ensure Birmingham’s commercial prospects aligned with local ambitions for growth in this age of Industrial Revolution. They included, briefly, William Hutton. The commissioners were not elected, but rather attained their powers through parliamentary acts, which they had to apply for each time they wished to make significant changes, and to impose the local taxes to facilitate those changes. These included changes to road layouts, construction and cleansing of the streets, introduction of gas lighting, managing policing and eventually the arrival of the railways. Across the course of their existence, they also oversaw a major redevelopment of Birmingham’s markets, including the Bull Ring and Smithfield.
Thursday was the main market day in the Bull Ring, as it had been since medieval times. As the new century dawned, shoppers and anyone passing through the thoroughfare, would have been aware of lots of demolition work going on around them, as run down housing was removed to make for a more spacious shopping area. With the Shambles and the old housing gone, the view down the Bull Ring towards St Martin’s was not so different to that which you might see today. The image below was painted by another famous local artist, David Cox, less than 30 years after the Lines’ Shambles sketch. Cox has captured some of the hustle bustle of market day, but there is clearly a change in the layout of the market. Looking downhill towards St Martin’s, elegant shops either side of the stalls and the statue of Nelson towards the end. I don’t think it looks too different to the view along there today (minus the geese!)
[1] If you have access to YouTube, there is a fine video showing a replication of Birmingham in medieval times: https://youtu.be/JZq9cBzrIVI?si=tuahy_2HsGWHjYsJ
[2] The Old Shambles, Bull Ring, Birmingham, 1800, Samuel Lines Snr, Birmingham Museums Trust